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Pico beatmania IIDX controller
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README.md Turntable hotswap 2023-04-05 11:49:50 +08:00

Pico IIDX - Beatmania IIDX controller

Features:

  • It's thin, really thin.
  • Turntable and keyboard are detachable with magnetic connector, hotswap!
  • HID lights, of course!
  • Multiple turntable effects.
  • Many live settings.
  • All source files open.

Thanks to many respectful guys/companies who made their tools or materials free or open source (KiCad, OpenSCAD, InkScape, Raspberry things).

Caution

This is a difficult build, much more difficult than my previous Pico Popn project:
https://github.com/whowechina/popn_pico.
I suggest you to build my Pico Popn first.
This Pico IIDX project:

  • Heavily depends on 3D printing, both FDM and SLA (resin).
  • Requires skills to solder tiny components and thin cables.

Move forward only if you're REALLY interested.

This README documentation is still in progress.

HOW TO BUILD

Turntable Materials

  • 1x AS5600 hall angular sensor board set (23mm*23mm)
  • 1x 6mm*2mm magnet (must be radially magnetized), normally comes with the AS5600 board set.
  • 1x 61804-2RS deep groove ball bearing (20x32x7mm), normally < 5US$;
  • 3x M4*10mm screws (large flat head is better) and hex nuts, for bearing.
  • 4x M3*12mm screws, for spinning disc.
  • 2x 1N4148 diode (choose ones easy to solder)
  • 1x Custom cut acrylic disc, 4mm thickness.

Keyboard Materials

Detachable Cable

  • 1x HDMI cable (ultra slim, diameter < 4mm), at least 50cm in length, we'll cut the HDMI connectors off, so pick a cheap one.
  • 2X Magnetic pogopin connector sets, male and female. PCB side should use ones with 90-degree pins, cable side use ones with straight pins.

Step 1 - Buy

Documentation still in progress, come later...

Step 2 - 3D Print

Keyboard

  • PCB bottom
    FDM, PLA/PETG transparent, 0.2mm layer, 4 walls.
  • PCB top (dual color if you have Bambu Lab's machine and equipped with AMS) FDM, PLA transparent, 0.2mm layer, 4 walls. If you have Bambu Lab's AMS system, use PLA black/gray for 3.0mm+ layers.

Turntable

For following prints, make sure the "Seam Position" is set to "Random" in your slicer.

  • Base, choose one of the 150, 170 or 180, based on your choice of disc size. FDM, PLA, 0.16-0.2mm layer.
  • Bearing seat
    FDM, PLA, 0.16-0.2mm layer.
  • Flange for disc
    FDM, PLA, 0.16-0.2mm layer.

Button keycaps

SLA (resin), regular white, 0.05mm layer.

Step 3 - Solder

  • Turntable
    There're a set of I2C and a WS2812B signal line together in the cable that connects turntable and the keyboard. Unfortunately, these signals crosstalk. So, we have to use shield cables for them. Two I2C lines should have a shield cable, and the WS2812B signal should have another shield cable. Good thing is, an HDMI cable has 4 shield cables and bunch of other small cables. We can make use of it.

    To ease the pain of soldering cables and 2 1N4148 diodes. I made a turntable PCB. But I haven't tried it myself.

Documentation still in progress, come later...

Step 4 - Assemble

  • Assemble the turntable
  • Install the low-profile stabilizers.
    https://docs.keeb.io/choc-stabs
    A little trick here is to leave the key switch unsoldered, after the stabilizer, the key switch and the keycap are in place, push the keycap down and then solder the key switch. This way the key switch can align to the stabilizers better.
  • Assemble the keyboard

Step 4 - Firmware

  • For the new build, hold the BOOTSEL button while connect the USB to a PC, there will be a disk named "RPI-RP2" showed up. Drag the uf2 firmware binary file into it. That's it. There's a small hole at the back side of the keyboard, it is facing right to the BOOTSEL button.
  • If it is already running my IIDX firmware, hold two small AUX buttons together will do the same as the BOOTSEL button.
  • For now, some configurations are hardcoded, if you want to change something, you need to build by yourself.

Documentation still in progress, come later...

What If?

  • I can't find pogopin connector.
  • I don't have Bambu Lab's machine, or I don't have an AMS system.
  • STL files are not accurate, difficult to assemble.
    Solution: 3D printers are different, they make small differences in printing. If the components are not happy with each other, you can fiddle with the OpenSCAD source file and the numbers in it to get perfect components for your case.
  • I don't have resin printer.
  • I can't find Kailh low-profile stabilizer.
  • I don't have electronic DIY gears.

Documentation still in progress, come later...