Cons-n-Stuff/popn_pico
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Screw spacer STL file and some updates to README

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whowechina 2022-09-13 22:38:46 +08:00
parent fc9af55f3d
commit cf60124b3d
3 changed files with 35 additions and 10 deletions
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21
CASE/screw_spacer.scad Normal file
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@ -0,0 +1,21 @@
$fn=64;
spacer([0,0,0]);
spacer([8,0,0]);
spacer([16,0,0]);
spacer([24,0,0]);
spacer([32,0,0]);
spacer([40,0,0]);
module spacer(pos)
{
translate(pos) union() {
difference() {
cylinder(d=6.5,h=3.5);
translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(d=3.5,h=10);
}
translate([2,-1,]) cube([4,2,0.3]);
}
}

BIN
PRODUCTION/screw_spacer.stl Normal file
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Binary file not shown.

24
README.md
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@ -44,20 +44,23 @@ Thanks to:
### Step 2 - Solder
* Use the smallest soldering iron tip you have.
* Use solder flux.
* Use solder flux, always keep the pins "wet".
* Soldering iron temperature set to around 300°C.
* Use tweezers to hold components.
* Tricks for Type-C socket and 4020 RGB LEDs.
* Put flux on all those small pins. Melt a tiny little bit solder (seriously very very little bit) at the iron tip. Then quickly solder the pins. Flux and very little bit solder is the key.
* 2 resistors near USB socket are 5.1k ohm, others are all 220ohm.
* Don't forget to solder 3 "holes" which connects to the Raspberry Pi Pico's USB pins.
<img src="doc/usb_soldered.jpg" width="40%">
<img src="doc/usb_soldered.jpg" width="40%">
* 4020 RGB LEDs are side-facing, don't make it "up-facing".
<img src="doc/leds_soldered.jpg" width="30%">
<img src="doc/leds_soldered.jpg" width="30%">
* They look like this when finish:
<img src="doc/pcb_soldered_up.jpg" width="100%">
<img src="doc/pcb_soldered_down.jpg" width="100%">
### Step 3 - Firmware
* Use a USB cable to connect the PCB to a PC/Mac computer while pressing down the small button on Raspberry Pi Pico. An explorer window will pop up. If it doesn't show up, navigate to a disk labeled "RPI-RP2".
<img src="doc/rpi_rp2.png" width="50%">
<img src="doc/rpi_rp2.png" width="50%">
* Drag the UF2 file (**/PRODUCTION/pico_popn.uf2**) to the root of this new disk.
* The RGB lights will start rainbow effects.
* If it's not working, go back to Step 2 and fix it.
@ -67,13 +70,14 @@ Thanks to:
<img src="doc/switch_installed.jpg" width="30%">
* Put the PCB into the case.
* Gap between the plate and the PCB is about 3.4mm. There're many ways to fix and fasten boards and case. Here's my solution, I reprocessed the screws and spacers as they didn't come with proper length.
<img src="doc/screw_solution.png" width="50%">
<img src="doc/screw_real.jpg" width="50%">
* Use some anti-slip silicone pads.
<img src="doc/screw_final.jpg" width="50%">
<img src="doc/screw_solution.png" width="50%">
<img src="doc/screw_real.jpg" width="50%">
* Another way is to use a long M3 screw from top side and a nut at the bottom side. Between PCB and plate, use a 3.5mm length M3 spacer with no threads. You can also 3D print some spacers using provided **/PRODUCTION/screw_spacer.stl**.
* Don't forget get some anti-slip silicone pads.
<img src="doc/screw_final.jpg" width="50%">
* Almost done.
<img src="doc/assembled_top.jpg" width="50%">
<img src="doc/assembled_back.jpg" width="50%">
<img src="doc/assembled_top.jpg" width="50%">
<img src="doc/assembled_back.jpg" width="50%">
### Step 5 - Keycaps
* There're many choices.