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Screw spacer STL file and some updates to README
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21
CASE/screw_spacer.scad
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21
CASE/screw_spacer.scad
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@ -0,0 +1,21 @@
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$fn=64;
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spacer([0,0,0]);
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spacer([8,0,0]);
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spacer([16,0,0]);
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spacer([24,0,0]);
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spacer([32,0,0]);
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spacer([40,0,0]);
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module spacer(pos)
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{
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translate(pos) union() {
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difference() {
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cylinder(d=6.5,h=3.5);
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translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(d=3.5,h=10);
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}
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translate([2,-1,]) cube([4,2,0.3]);
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}
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}
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BIN
PRODUCTION/screw_spacer.stl
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BIN
PRODUCTION/screw_spacer.stl
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Binary file not shown.
24
README.md
24
README.md
@ -44,20 +44,23 @@ Thanks to:
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### Step 2 - Solder
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* Use the smallest soldering iron tip you have.
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* Use solder flux.
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* Use solder flux, always keep the pins "wet".
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* Soldering iron temperature set to around 300°C.
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* Use tweezers to hold components.
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* Tricks for Type-C socket and 4020 RGB LEDs.
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* Put flux on all those small pins. Melt a tiny little bit solder (seriously very very little bit) at the iron tip. Then quickly solder the pins. Flux and very little bit solder is the key.
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* 2 resistors near USB socket are 5.1k ohm, others are all 220ohm.
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* Don't forget to solder 3 "holes" which connects to the Raspberry Pi Pico's USB pins.
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<img src="doc/usb_soldered.jpg" width="40%">
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<img src="doc/usb_soldered.jpg" width="40%">
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* 4020 RGB LEDs are side-facing, don't make it "up-facing".
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<img src="doc/leds_soldered.jpg" width="30%">
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<img src="doc/leds_soldered.jpg" width="30%">
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* They look like this when finish:
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<img src="doc/pcb_soldered_up.jpg" width="100%">
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<img src="doc/pcb_soldered_down.jpg" width="100%">
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### Step 3 - Firmware
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* Use a USB cable to connect the PCB to a PC/Mac computer while pressing down the small button on Raspberry Pi Pico. An explorer window will pop up. If it doesn't show up, navigate to a disk labeled "RPI-RP2".
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<img src="doc/rpi_rp2.png" width="50%">
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<img src="doc/rpi_rp2.png" width="50%">
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* Drag the UF2 file (**/PRODUCTION/pico_popn.uf2**) to the root of this new disk.
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* The RGB lights will start rainbow effects.
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* If it's not working, go back to Step 2 and fix it.
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@ -67,13 +70,14 @@ Thanks to:
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<img src="doc/switch_installed.jpg" width="30%">
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* Put the PCB into the case.
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* Gap between the plate and the PCB is about 3.4mm. There're many ways to fix and fasten boards and case. Here's my solution, I reprocessed the screws and spacers as they didn't come with proper length.
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<img src="doc/screw_solution.png" width="50%">
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<img src="doc/screw_real.jpg" width="50%">
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* Use some anti-slip silicone pads.
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<img src="doc/screw_final.jpg" width="50%">
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<img src="doc/screw_solution.png" width="50%">
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<img src="doc/screw_real.jpg" width="50%">
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* Another way is to use a long M3 screw from top side and a nut at the bottom side. Between PCB and plate, use a 3.5mm length M3 spacer with no threads. You can also 3D print some spacers using provided **/PRODUCTION/screw_spacer.stl**.
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* Don't forget get some anti-slip silicone pads.
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<img src="doc/screw_final.jpg" width="50%">
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* Almost done.
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<img src="doc/assembled_top.jpg" width="50%">
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<img src="doc/assembled_back.jpg" width="50%">
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<img src="doc/assembled_top.jpg" width="50%">
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<img src="doc/assembled_back.jpg" width="50%">
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### Step 5 - Keycaps
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* There're many choices.
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