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README.md

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+# Pico Popn - Pop'n Music Controller
+
+<img src="doc/keycap_bottle_cover.jpg" width="80%">
+
+Features:
+* It's tiny.
+* 1000Hz polling rate.
+* HID lights (9 button lights and Logo RGB).
+* RGB rainbow effects.
+* So far, it only supports Gamepad mode.
+
+![Demo 1](doc/overal.mp4)
+![Demo 2](doc/lighting.mp4)
+
+Thanks to:
+* SpeedyPotato, for his great SDVX pico project which inspired me in the first place. I also got many materials from his repo. Check out his great projects: https://github.com/speedypotato.
+* CrazyRedMachine, I got panel arts from his SVG files: https://github.com/CrazyRedMachine/PopnPanel.
+* Many respectful guys/companies who made their tools or materials free or open source (KiCad, OpenSCAD, InkScape, Raspberry things).
+
+## HOW TO BUILD
+
+### Step 1 - Buy
+* Place order at jlcpcb.com for PCB and plate. Gerber zip files are **/PRODUCTION/PCB.zip** and **/PRODUCTION/PLATE.zip**. Leave everything default in JLC's ordering page (board thickness is 1.6mm). Choose what ever color you like, I prefer white.  
+<img src="doc/pcb_and_plate.jpg" width="50%">
+* Order 3D printing service for the case, FDM with transparent PETG filament or SLA with half-transparent resin. If you own a 3D printer, do it yourself. The file is **/PRODUCTION/pico_popn_case.stl**.  
+<img src="doc/case_3d_print.jpg" width="50%">
+* Buy other components (get few more for tolerance):
+  * 1 * Raspberry Pi Pico (https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/raspberry-pi-pico/)
+  * 9 * Gateron Hotswap Sockets (https://www.gateron.co/products/gateron-hot-swap-pcb-socket)
+  * 9 * Gateron 3.4mm-travel switches (I prefer Box CJ Switch, https://www.keychron.com/products/gateron-box-cj-switch)
+  * 1 * USB Type-C socket (918-418K2023S40001 or KH-TYPE-C-16P)
+  * 10 * WS2812B-4020 side-facing RGB LEDs
+  * 9 * 2835 white LEDs (0.2W or 0.5W)
+  * 10 * 0603 220ohm resistors
+  * 2 * 0603 5.1kohm resistors
+  * 2 * Tactile Switches (4.5x4.5x6.5mm or 4.5x4.5x7mm or KAN4542-0701C)
+  * 4 * set of M3 screws/nuts/spacers (I'll explain later)
+  * 9 * Keycaps (many choices I'll explain later)
+
+### Step 2 - Solder
+* Use the smallest soldering iron tip you have.
+* Use solder flux.
+* Soldering iron temperature set to around 300°C.
+* Use tweezers to hold components.
+* Tricks for Type-C socket and 4020 RGB LEDs.
+    * Put flux on all those small pins. Melt a tiny little bit solder (seriously very very little bit) at the iron tip. Then quickly solder the pins. Flux and very little bit solder is the key.
+* 2 resistors near USB socket are 5.1k ohm, others are all 220ohm.
+* Don't forget to solder 3 "holes" which connects to the Raspberry Pi Pico's USB pins.  
+<img src="doc/usb_soldered.jpg" width="40%">
+* 4020 RGB LEDs are side-facing, don't make it "up-facing".  
+<img src="doc/leds_soldered.jpg" width="30%">
+
+### Step 3 - Firmware
+* Use a USB cable to connect the PCB to a PC/Mac computer while pressing down the small button on Raspberry Pi Pico. An explorer window will pop up. If it doesn't show up, navigate to a disk labeled "RPI-RP2".  
+<img src="doc/rpi_rp2.png" width="50%">
+* Drag the UF2 file (**/PRODUCTION/pico_popn.uf2**) to the root of this new disk.
+* The RGB lights will start rainbow effects.
+* If it's not working, go back to Step 2 and fix it.
+
+### Step 4 - Assembly
+* Insert 9 key switches into the plate, be careful, don't bend the leads.  
+  <img src="doc/switch_installed.jpg" width="30%">
+* Put the PCB into the case.
+* Gap between the plate and the PCB is about 3.4mm. There're many ways to fix and fasten boards and case. Here's my solution, I reprocessed the screws and spacers as they didn't come with proper length.  
+ <img src="doc/screw_solution.png" width="50%">
+ <img src="doc/screw_real.jpg" width="50%">
+* Use some anti-slip silicone pads.  
+ <img src="doc/screw_final.jpg" width="50%">
+* Almost done.  
+ <img src="doc/assembled_top.jpg" width="50%">
+ <img src="doc/assembled_back.jpg" width="50%">
+
+ ### Step 5 - Keycaps
+ * There're many choices.
+   * Homemade bottle cover keycaps  
+   <img src="doc/keycap_bottle_cover.jpg" width="50%">
+   * Homemade coat buttons keycaps  
+   <img src="doc/keycap_coat_button.jpg" width="50%">
+   * DSA color keycaps  
+   <img src="doc/keycap_dsa.jpg" width="50%">
+   * DSA transparent keycaps  
+   <img src="doc/keycap_dsa_2.jpg" width="50%">
+   * MA color keycaps  
+   <img src="doc/keycap_ma.jpg" width="50%">
+   * XDA 1.5U color keycaps  
+   <img src="doc/keycap_xda15x.jpg" width="50%">
+ * About the homemade process.
+   * I bought these inexpensive 3gram/5gram distribution bottles just to get the covers (28-30mm diameter).  
+   <img src="doc/homemade_bottles.jpg" width="50%">
+   * Cut the shaft/socket out of regular transparent keycaps.  
+   <img src="doc/homemade_get_shaft.jpg" width="50%">
+   * Drill some holes on them so later we can apply UV resin better.  
+   <img src="doc/homemade_drill_holes.jpg" width="50%">
+   * Apply UV resin, glue the socket and the cover together.  
+   <img src="doc/homemade_uv_resin.jpg" width="50%">
+   <img src="doc/homemade_glue_together.jpg" width="50%">
+   * Don't forget alignment.  
+   <img src="doc/homemade_alignment.jpg" width="50%">
+   * After cured by UV light, they look like this:  
+   <img src="doc/homemade_cured.jpg" width="50%">
+   
+
+   
+   
+