Thanks to many respectful guys/companies who made their tools or materials free or open source (KiCad, OnShape, InkScape, Raspberry things).
And thanks to community developers that inspired me and helped me: CrazyRedMachine (https://github.com/CrazyRedMachine), SpeedyPotato (https://github.com/speedypotato).
## Notes
This one is relatively easy to build compared with my other projects like IIDX Pico or Teeny. You can check out my other cool projects.
I made this project in my personal time with no financial benefit or sponsorship. I will continue to improve the project. I have done my best to ensure that everything is accurate and functional, there's always a chance that mistakes may occur. I cannot be held responsible for any loss of your time or money that may result from using this open source project. Thank you for your understanding.
* Go JLCPCB and make order with the gerber zip file (latest `Production\PCB\chu_main_xxx.zip`), regular FR-4 board, black color, thickness is **1.6mm**.
* 3x MPR121 modules, there're many types in the market, choose ones like this, and remember to **cut (unshort) the ADDR pin** which is short by default.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/9695
There's not enough space for the whole height of MPR121 module plus the lead pads. So you need to solder the module like the picture shows below.
First apply some insulation tape.
<imgsrc="doc/mpr121_solder1.jpg"width="60%">
Then solder the module directly against the PCB.
<imgsrc="doc/mpr121_solder2.jpg"width="60%">
You can use the pins comes with the module, but you need to cut away the plastic pads.
* Find a service to cut a light guide panel using DXF or DWG file `Production\CAD\chu_pico_lgp.*`, the size is 256mm*60mm, 1.8mm to 2.0mm thickness, thinner is better for sensitivity. 2.0mm is easy to find, 1.8mm is rare. I used 1.8mm for my build.
* A self-adhesive **textured**/**frosted** film sheet, it is applied on top surface of the light guide panel. It improves touch feel. You can use buy window sticker film. You **MUST** use self-adhesive ones, **NOT** static cling ones. They're usually very cheap.
* Cut the film to roughly match the shape of the light guide panel, and stick to the panel.
<imgsrc="doc/film_1.jpg"width="60%">
* Gentlely rub the film to remove any air bubbles and make it stick tightly.
* It's for good looking, as it hides 5 ToF sensors.
<imgsrc="doc/ir_cover_1.png"width="60%">
* IR lights can go through.
<imgsrc="doc/ir_cover_2.png"width="60%">
* Find a service to cut an IR cover using the DXF or DWG file `Production\CAD\chu_pico_ir_cover.*`, the size is 293.2mm*63.5mm, 1mm thickness. The material must be "Infrared Transmitting Acrylic Sheet" which can block visible lights (so it looks black) while letting IR lights go through.
* For the new build, hold the BOOTSEL button while connect the USB to a PC, there will be a disk named "RPI-RP2" showed up. Drag the UF2 firmware binary file into it. That's it. There's a small hole at the bottom side of the Chu Pico, it is facing right to the BOOTSEL button.
* It works on CrazyRedMachine's RedBoard protocol. For more information, please check out CrazyRedMachine's project (Don't forget to give him a star and drop by his GitHub for other cool projects):
* It has a command line to do configuration. You can use this Web Serial Terminal to connect to the USB serial port of the Chu Pico. (Note: "?" is for help)
I'm using OnShape free subscription. It's powerful but it can't archive original designs to local, so I can only share the link here. STL/DXF/DWG files are exported from this online document.